cold start problems

Does anyone know how long the factory warranty is good for? I asked them when I bought it in Jan of this year, they couldnt tell me an exact answer. I just hope its longer than 4 years. If so, I only have a couple days to call the dealer to have them look at it again or else my factory warranty is expired...

4 years (starting at 'in service' date) or 60,000 miles. Then there is the power train warranty that is 6 yrs or 70K miles (I think).
 
I have a 07 that started having the same issue a couple of weeks before xmas. It would always start on the second try and twice had a rough idle. So the thursday before xmas I changed the oil and dumped a can of Sea Foam ( I put that SH^& in everything) in the tank and ran to Brooklyn NY and back for xmas about 420 mile round trip. It starts right up on the first try ever since. Something to try for only 10 bucks.
 
I have a 07 that started having the same issue a couple of weeks before xmas. It would always start on the second try and twice had a rough idle. So the thursday before xmas I changed the oil and dumped a can of Sea Foam ( I put that SH^& in everything) in the tank and ran to Brooklyn NY and back for xmas about 420 mile round trip. It starts right up on the first try ever since. Something to try for only 10 bucks.

Seafoam is def some good stuff. "fxlr8" has a nice thread for the treatment here's the link ///5976
 
'07 with 44K miles having the same issue here. It's at the dealer as we speak. They said to change the battery. They're charging me 180, I told them I will look around and get it done. Any suggestions? I was thinking the Red Tops from Advance Auto. I will search the forums as well. Thanks.
 
'07 with 44K miles having the same issue here. It's at the dealer as we speak. They said to change the battery. They're charging me 180, I told them I will look around and get it done. Any suggestions? I was thinking the Red Tops from Advance Auto. I will search the forums as well. Thanks.

Optima yellow top D35. You can get them at most battery retailers.

Posted from my BlackBerry using BerryBlab
 
How about Costco? I got my battery from there just this past October. About $60 (after core return) and just install it yourself. I think it had like an extra 60 cranking power or something too.
 
It'd be interesting to see 07's and 08's come across the same problem as the time passes on. Crossing my fingers that this won't be the case.
 
I had a wierd cold start the other day. I started it up and the rpm raised then dropped then fluttered (like it wanted to stall or was not get any gas or something) and then the rpms shot back up where there supposed to be when the motor is cold on a cold start up.

I have a new optima redtop battery and i cleaned my throttle body recently. I'm guessing it was a freak thing as this only happened to me twice in a year and a half.
 
hey gang,
First poster here, had to register to chime in.

I have the same problem on my new to me 06 FX35. I just bought it at 52k miles. I picked it up from a Cadillac dealership pre-owned, and I've loved the car so far, but I get weirded out when it doesn't start, exactly like the videos show on these pages.

I saw this thread and though "at four pages, there must be a resolution" but alas, nothing there. I don't know what to do, but I suppose I'll have my battery tested and maybe try seafoam. My car starts up flawlessly THE SECOND TIME but the first I get either dipping revs and a stall, dipping then it smooths out, or it just never fires. The second time it catches quick and smooths out. This is all sub 30*, anything above that doesn't cause a problem.

I'd love to see a solution for this, but am doubtful there will be. It's gotta be some kind of "idle air control valve" or fuel regulator or something. I've been debating taking my car back to the Caddy dealer to have them look at it, but after seeing this, I doubt they'd find anything. My belts are squealing so I may have them look at it anyways, but I don't want to pay out the butt for it.

Any further help would be appreciated, and of course, I'll post with anything I find...as of now, it's not really an issue as much as an annoyance, as mine isn't problematic any time besides the morning and 30 or less...so as soon as I take it anywhere, it's fine.
 
my cold start issue continues, but isn't a consistent problem & i can't find a common thread to the issue - other than the cold. it's been very cold in the boston area recently but i've only had the issue every few days or so.

i replaced the battery as a longshot after i couldn't start the car at the mall w/the family over the weekend. it wasn't the first start of the day, it was the second & the car was fairly warmed up at that point, we weren't there for very long at all. i tried to start it maybe 5-10 times over a period of 5 minutes or so. i popped the hood, tapped the battery connections & fuse boxes (ecu?) by the battery, got in and it fired right up.

i bought a battery & installed that day. the next day it was 7 degrees on the morn and it started right up. a day or two later - no go on the first start, fired on second. this morning it started on the first try with a very, very rough idle for about 15 seconds, then smoothed out at 2k rpms to warm up.

this problem blows
 
maf sensor, throttle body, battery..can't say which one exactly is the culprit...good thing i haven't run in to this issue despite having a 25 degree weather here lately. damn that car is loud, in the garage?
 
Luckily it's been warm here, since I haven't driven in awhile. My battery is new enough though. Once I get back home this summer the upper plenum and intake is coming apart for a thorough cleaning of everything, and the Stillen intake install. So if I get this problem next winter, who knows how to solve it haha.
 
That has happened to me twice so far over the pass 3 years I have owned it but more recently now at it usually after I don't drive for atleast 3 days, I am starting to worry as well. New optima red top, haven't cleaned the trottle body lately but I do notice it starts on the first try but the rpms dip then catch itself. not a fan off cars that gives me headaches, might be time for a new car pretty soon if one of us cannot get this problem resolved.

---------- Post added at 02:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:35 AM ----------

This is starting to bug me now. doing some research online i have found some possible solution that speaks in general and not infiniti specific, but worth a short since it discusses the entire system.

Fuel Injected Vehicles

<LI id=jsArticleStep1 itxtvisited="1">On a late model fuel injected vehicle, the strategy will be somewhat different. The vehicle must be checked out prior to starting so the advantage is not lost as it warms up. The first thing to check is the fuel pressure to see if there is a sluggish fuel pump. Hook up a fuel tester to the fuel rail and then turn the key on and note the pressure. If the pressure is not right, the pump is starting to fail.
<LI id=jsArticleStep1 itxtvisited="1">If it takes cycling the key two or three times to build fuel pressure, the anti-roll over valve in the tank is malfunctioning and the fuel is returning to the tank when the engine is shut off. The whole fuel line has to be primed prior to starting. If this is OK, check the coolant temperature sensor for failure. If it is stuck at 80 or 90 degrees Celsius, the computer will not see the engine as cold and will enrich the mixture. <LI id=jsArticleStep1 itxtvisited="1">Check the oxygen sensors and see if they are heated. If so, the heaters should be working. If the heaters are not working, the mixture will be messed up until the engine gets hot and they finally go into closed loop. If the vehicle has variable camshaft valve timing, make sure that it is working and the cams are not advanced. <LI id=jsArticleStep1 itxtvisited="1">Check the camshaft sensor for proper operation. The camshaft controls the fuel injection and one that is failing will cause a hard start. A fouled or leaky fuel injector can also cause this situation. Fuel injectors can be checked different ways but the easiest in this situation is to check the temperature of the exhaust, using an infrared probe at the exhaust port on the manifold. <LI id=jsArticleStep1 itxtvisited="1">One other thing that will cause a stutter on starting is the mass air flow sensor. Check to see if it is functioning immediately on startup. To check the mass air flow sensor and the other sensors in the vehicle, you will need a code reader. A code reader can be purchased at any big box auto parts store. Each type of code reader comes with instructions and a code sheet that interprets the codes read by the code reader
Besides that it just seems like there is no fuel upon initial start up like the fuel pressure is not there and then the second cycling gives the correct amount of fuel pressure.
 
I'm probably just gona have the dealer look at it. Make use of the warranty i bought.

As for the car being loud, the car is the garage with the back close to the wall. The door was open when i started it. =\


Sent from my iPhone
 
Wow, I am glad I found this thread. Sucks there is no solution but I feel everyone's pain. I have a 2006 FX35 AWD, bought back in August 2008. Have the exact same problem that everyone is describing and is shown in the videos. Currently going through my 3rd canadian winter of battling this problem. Over the last 2 winters we took the car into the Infiniti dealership here about 6 - 7 times and they have replaced all sorts of things under warranty. New battery, new fuel pump, new fuel injectors, and some other electrical components but nothing has fixed the problem. Same bs responses from them.... they can't duplicate the problem, no error codes, ect. We got a block heater installed last winter and that has helped but you can still tell the problem is not fixed. My wife drives this car to work and often she can not plug her car in during the day so that goes out the window. We had to have CAA boost the car about a month ago as it would not start at all. Interesting enough when I tried to boost from our other car it wouldn't work but when CAA did it with their tow truck and lots of amps it fired right up. I was thinking that maybe an aftermarket battery with more CCA would help fix the problem, but i don't really want to dump more money into the problem if it is not going to fix it. My wife is about ready to sell this pos in the spring. Really sucks because we both love the vehicle other than this major problem. I feel bad selling the problem to someone else but we really don't know what else to do at this point.
 
A little random speculation,

I've had the exact same issue with my 04 45', though nearly in reverse from everyone's experience here.

I have a bad habit of heading out of work to flip on the fx 2-3 minutes early in the cold before leaving and I do it by opening the door, reaching through the steering wheel and turning it over. One in every 20 or 30 starts I can't quite grasp the starter switch and it slips out of my fingers immediately after turning it over.

So the vehicle turns over for 0.1 seconds, just enough to key the starter, trigger a substantial fuel squirt, and stops. From that point I can crank until i'm blue in the face, the trucks perfectly flooded. Faster than usual turn over, without a hint of firing. Sounds exactly like all the attached videos. If I give it 10 seconds, and try again it'll usually fire right up. If I push it and try too quickly it'll sputter and the engine will sometimes quit. All classic indications of a set of washed down rings, poor compression and a flooded vehicle.

I wonder if there's a slight FI glitch that dumps too much fuel and wets the plugs on cold startup under particular circumstances. A couple seconds to evaporate the fuel and it fires up. Colder the motor, the easier it is to flood, and especially in the US where your long term fuel trims are probably setup during warmer temperature long drives, and this is liable to make flooding easier with a cold motor on a cold morning. A brand new battery that holds a particularly high charge would turn the motor over slightly faster, with slightly more energy at the spark plug and would probably hide the issue temporarily. A set of plugs might also improve ignition and reduce the chance of it happening.

Nothing that could be tested, or easily fixed without a tweek to the cold start routine (read, never gonna happen), but might also mean 'working as intended' and probably causing little long-term harm other than a wait until some of the fuel has evaporated. On first generation fuel injected cars, holding the accelerator to the floor cut out the fuel in an attempt to clear a flooded state. Might give that a try if your getting the issue constantly. No idea if the Infinity ECU restricts fuel, but the additional air certainly never hurts a flooded vehicle.

Good luck,
 
I also have the exact same issues with my 06 FX35 (the 2 videos match it to a tee). I bought my Infiniti used in 08, but with 1.5 years still left on the warranty. As soon as the temps dropped to around freezing, my car started having cold start issues. I keep it in an insulated garage in the winter (temp in my garage is rarely lower than -10C) , also plugged in, and 75% of mornings i have issues, and also if the car sits for a while (few hours).

I have taken it in at least 8 times for this issue and the dealership has replaced the fuel pumps, fuel injectors, alternator and i believe the battery. They regularly tell me they "cannot duplicate the problem", which is bull, considering i have issues almost daily. They have no clue what is causing the problems and said they'd honour the warranty if i kept taking it back (warranty was up in '10). I have contaced Infiniti about this a couple times but nothing has come of it. This winter i had to call a tow truck bc it would not start at my work, plugged in (every other car started around me). He pulled up and couldnt believe he was about to tow an Infiniti.

Im super frustrated... Im debating selling come spring, bc i know that this problem most likely wont get solved..

Can we do anything more other than voicing our concerns/complaints??
 
the cold start problem happened to my fx as well but it was resolved by battery replacement in the car as well as the remote. I hope this helps..
 
Ahh so you may think it's the battery. I think it's more then that. I changed my battery to an optima and it still does it. Something has me thinking it has to do with the coils or what sends the signal to them to fire.


Sent from my iPhone
 
Back
Top